Help me make better fish photos

[MadHatter]

I am truly amazed at the quality of some of the photo's you guys manage to acheive - especially with such challenging subjects as dwarf cichlids. Considering their often skulking demeanor and preference for low light conditions, it's a wonder to me that you mangage to get any publishable photos at all. The one time I tried, it didn't go well. Out of many dozens of shots, only 2 or 3 could be rather too kindly be described as mediocre at best.
So please, share your secrets. What camera settings do you use? How do you handle lighting? Are there health effects to worry about with flash photography? What techniques do you use to get your fish in frame and keep it there?

 

[Mike Wise]

I think that we need more information. What kind of camera do you use?

 

[tjudy]

Specific systems for getting good images depend upon the camera being used. I use a Nikon D80 digital SLR and (currently) a Tamron 18-200 telephoto macro. I just got the lens and really like it. It has taken the place of two lenses: an 18 mm lens used for general photography and a 90mm macro. The lens lets me sit two feet (or more) from the tank and zoom right in on top of the fish. As to your questions:

What camera settings do you use? How do you handle lighting?

These two questions do together. I use manual settings, and for cichlids I like a high aperture (at least 22) so that there is a deeper focal range. The best shots are not, in my opinion, a side-on picture of a fish. That is great for ID purposes, but I prefer action if I can catch it. A larger depth of field allows for the fish to facing the camera or multiple fish at slightly different distances and the subject will still be in focus. I use a shutter speed on the 1/60 to 1/120 range. Slower if the fish is barely moving. Faster shutter speeds and higher aperture means more light. I use a remote flash over the subject and the front flash on the camera. My Nikon allows me to adjust flash strength, so I set the on-camera flash to a very low setting and rely mainly on the over the tank flash.

Are there health effects to worry about with flash photography?

None that anyone has been able to prove to me. I have never seen or heard of a study. My fish do not flinch. I have seen invertebrates in reef tanks flinch, and many aquariums and zoos have signs up asking you not to flash. However, I get the chance to visit these places 'off hours' occasionally and my hosts tell me to go ahead and flash. I think the signs are really more to keep camera flashes from disturbing other people.

What techniques do you use to get your fish in frame and keep it there?

Patience... I do not like adding food because that just results in there being particles in the water that catch the flash and look really bad. For dwarf cichlids, if all I am trying to do is get a good ID picture, I will put a small mirror in the tank near the subject's territory. When they come of to display I can get a good picture... but the mirror is usually in the frame too. Another trick is to turn off all the lights in the room except for the tank lights, set up all the flashes and equipment, go away for an hour to let the fish settle back into normal behavior and then start the photo session. Having a lens that allows you to sit back several feet from the tank and remote flashes really helps when shooting shy fish.

 

[briztoon]

I'm crap at taking photo's. But on our local forum we have a member who is very good at taking photos, and many forum members get him to come round and take photos. Otherwise I'd say go talk to your local specialist camera shop.

 

[Hudson Ensz]

It depends on the camera!
Certain cameras do better with or without flash but if possible, always go with flash it will probably be washed out so cover it with tissues.
got to go

 

[Hudson Ensz]

I am a real beginner so take this with agrain of salt.
It really depends if you are using a SLR or P&S (point and shoot)
If you are using a dslr it is easier to get better pictures with or without flash as the shutter speed is generally faster.
I will assume you have a p&s though.
To me your main problem is trying only once, practice makes perfect and there has never been a proffessional photographer has not spent thousands of hours trying!
Fish in general, are very hard to photograph, they wont sit still often and when they do, only for short periods of times. Also they can be painfully shy whenever the camera comes out.
The important aspects to shooting dwarf cichlid shots are, color balance or exposure, shutter speed, lighting, focus, and surroundings. Of course the fish needs to be in the right spot for the end photo to be excellant.
Lighting and exposure:
Use as much light as possible unless using slave flashes etc. This helps the camera focus and greatly speeds up the shutter speeds, resulting in quicker sharper pictures. If using a flash the amount of light needed is lessened.
Too much light and overexposure is a common problem, especially with light colored fish. if using a flash then get some tissue paper and cover the flash with it the more tissue the darker the picture. A word of caution, some people say to leave a space between the flash and tissue so that it doesnt get too hot from the flash.
Most cameras have controllable exposure compensation, this is extremely helpful.
Shutter speed:
This is related to lighting, the more light the quicker the shutter speed. Using higher iso will make the pictures a little grainy but will take faster. When using flash or lots of light set the iso as low as possible and Vice Versa. Generaslly the quicker the shutter speed the better chance of getting a clear picture of that apisto!
If available you can try getting pictures in sport mode if there is macro available. Sport mode generally raises the iso and makes the shutter speed faster.
Apistogrammas are almost always on the move so one of the keys to getting good pictures is quick shutter speeds (btw always go with flash if possible as motion blur is practically nonexistent then.)
Focus:
I always use macro and personnaly, I think everyone should if they are not using a SLR
Focusing is hard for apistos, as the camera never wants to focus on the fish, but on every ofther ornament in the tank. try to keep the fish in the middle but this can be hard with a moving fish!
Surroundings:
Some people aquascape their tanks keeping in mind photographing their fish.Generally though a white wall in the background will spoil most shots but a beautiful plant directly behind the subject can create a stunning shot. The adition of live plants, driftwood or rock in the tank will make better pictures then an obviously fake backdrop of a desert.
Sometimes you can creat beautiful shot with a plain black backdrop.
Getting the fish in the right possision:
The use of mirrors in the tank can be a great way to see fish looking their best and flaring up before your eyes with one catch... it is hard to not have the mirror in the picture.


As to your question regarding possible harm to the fish by flashes retina scarring is your only concern... JK