DIY c02 newbie!!

[kaoticice]

Hi guys
I wanted a c02 system purposely coz i wanted to keep densely planted tank, and also to lower pH. I've been thinking about getting a c02 system but though it was too expensive to purchase, and decided to go into DIY. However, I have basically NO knowledge at all with these thing. I'm still researching on these topics, but still no directions lol.
Anyway, building the system isn't too hard by the look of it. I'm planning to do something like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIRf3...eature=related
But... I'd also found that attaching an air-stone in the end of the system isn't adequate. is this true?? or do I need to make a proper reactor system? What's the most appropriate way to build these reactor? (not too complex please ^_^)
Moreover, since i'm planning to use the c02 in my 40 gallon tank, with probably easy to medium planted tank how much c02 is needed (how about 2cups of sugar and 1/2tsp yeast)? Is it appropriate to remove the c02 at night time or would using airstone at nighttime be enough?

soooo much questions ><
thanks guys
Ed

 

[Mud Pie Mama]

I have half a dozen planted tanks.:biggrin: Most of them are medium light and I dose Excel by Seachem labs for CO2 supplementation. I purchase it in LARGE 4 liter jugs at www.bigalsonline.com, this makes it very cost effective. There are many plants that do quite well with this routine.

I too started w/ the yeast based DIY CO2 in my very first planted tank; back when I was learning and very nervous about pressurized gases. There are several big problems w/ the yeast system. First, it is very labor intensive. Second, it is hard to keep a stable level of CO2 going into the tank. The level starts off low, peaks, and then gradually tapers off. To help combat this curve some hobbiest opt to run a few different CO2 yeast bottles at a time. Changing out a different one each week....go back to #1...labor intensive. Also, some hobbiest believe that fluctuating CO2 levels can lead to some types of algae problems. Third, considering the cost of sugar and such that you'll need over the course of a year, or two, and the cost of your time, the savings begin to diminish. And finally, fourth, the larger the tank is, the harder it is to get enough CO2 using the yeast method. I personally would consider a 40g to be just on the outside of that catagory.

I apologize if it seems that I'm raining on your parade, however, forewarned is forearmed!

What kind of lighting are you planning to use on this tank? High light: must have pressurized CO2. Medium light: Excel works great, I love it. Low light: you could get away w/o dosing CO2.

I use my Rena XP2 to diffuse my pressurized CO2 into my high light 75g tank. Some models of filters can handle this quite well.

(I tried the you-tube link and there is some error w/ it.)

 

[apistobob]

Almost all of my tanks are choked with plants and I use no Co2 supplementation. Rather, through trial and error, I have found a significant number of plants that thrive in my regular conditions. I find that it is much better to find plants that adjust to my parameters rather than try to adjust the environment to suit the plants.

Here is more info on how I approach plants:
www.dwarfcichlid.com/Aquarium_plants.php

Manty different plants will do very well in typical apistogramma tanks. However, it might take some trial and error to find the ones that thrive for you, On the other hand, if you want to get into the serious plant keeping segment of the hobby, there are a lot of differet DIY Co2 methods that are around. However, I believe that most hobbyists eventually give up on the DIY for all the reasons described by Mama.

Bob

 

[apistobob]

Sorry, This was a duplicate post and I can't figure out how to remove it.

 

[kaoticice]

Thanks for the advice guys, really appreciate it. I got a much better answer in here than other forums ^__^

Actually when i've been doing research, I realized that my lighting is pretty lowwww.. 1.1 Wat per gallon. Therefore, i think purchasing better light will be a much better idea than investing on co2 at the moment. I'd probably be using mostly java ferns, and amazon chain sword to create low-tech planted tank.

Another thing, how effective are those plant supplements?

thank youu
Ed

 

[ed seeley]

Get your CO2 and nutrients right before you up the lighting. Growing plants without getting lots of algae is a case of building a stable environment and the best way to limit growth (as something will) is to limit the light.

IME, you will find that adding stable CO2 to any planted tank really improves the plant growth. Upping the light, especially to above 2wpg, without adding CO2 often leads to a range of algae. I agree with Mud Pie on the drawbacks of DIY CO2, but I have used it successfully in a small tank by dosing with Excel as well.

As for nutrients, you can either go the DIY route and add dry powders (for a low light tank I'd only add Trace elements) or buy a commercial range. I don't know if you can get it over there but the Tropica Plant Nutrition range is an all-in-one that some guys over here are having great results with.

To be honest if you want a good planted tank go the whole hog and set one up properly. It will make a great home for Apistogrammas once it's set up. Here's mine with a pair of Biotoecus in...

 

[kaoticice]

That is a beautiful tank you got there O_O" How big is that tank.. Looked huge from the picture perspective.

What are the difference between those nutrients?? what's the most appropriate ones? I found alot of types from the seachem website.. I dont think its necessary to purchase all of them right?? http://www.aquatichouse.com/Supplements_files/seachemflourish.asp

thanks
Ed

 

[ed seeley]

That is a beautiful tank you got there O_O" How big is that tank.. Looked huge from the picture perspective.

What are the difference between those nutrients?? what's the most appropriate ones? I found alot of types from the seachem website.. I dont think its necessary to purchase all of them right?? http://www.aquatichouse.com/Supplements_files/seachemflourish.asp

thanks
Ed

Cheers. It's 1m long, or 3ft 3". You can just see the little Biotoecus pair in the centre at the bottom.

If you stick with the low lights and no or DIY CO2 then I'd stick with the trace elements only. I believe that is basically Seachem's standard Flourish fertiliser that you showed in the link.

If you go down a higher tech route then you will need to add Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium too so the plants aren't limited by nutrients.

My tank has pressurised CO2 at 30ppm, about 2wpg of T5 light, over 12 times per hour circulation (thanks to the built-in filter and an extra circulation pump), nutritious Aquasoil substrate and I use a DIY fertiliser, made from dry fertilisers, to feed the plants, but that's only one way to do it!

 

[Konigwolf]

Mind if I ask an example of your DIY dry fert and how you administer it?

 

[ed seeley]

Mind if I ask an example of your DIY dry fert and how you administer it?

I use a version of EI. I add trace elements (3 teaspoons) and Potassium sulphate (5 teaspoons) to one 500ml bottle of RO water and then Potassium Nitrate (12 teaspoons) and Potassium Phosphate (2.5 teaspoons) to another 500ml. I then dose these daily at 1ml per 20l of tank water. Well I say daily; I rarely remember each day but thanks to the Aquasoil I use with the nutrients in it it has no ill effects if I miss a few days (or weeks even as I've done recently!).