Filtering through peat

[Ttw]

I am interested in opinions regarding filtering through peat in those fish needing acidic pH. Romer states that peat is detrimental to Apisto aff. piexoto. Have others noted negative effects on other fish? Do we know what may be in the peat after processing?

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Do we know what may be in the peat after processing?

you need the right peat, it needs to be "100% sphagnum moss peat", if it is potting compost or sedge peat it won't help at all.

White water species may not benefit from peat filtration, but I've never found it detrimental at all. Have a look at this thread:
http://www.forum.apistogramma.com/showthread.php?t=8189.

cheers Darrel

 

[Mike Wise]

I agree, many clear- and whitewater species don't appreciate highly acidic water that can occur with using peat. Of course, it depends on how much peat is used and how soft the water is originally.

 

[pepetj]

It's quite easy to use peat (or any other organic source for tannins such as Indian Almond Leaves or driftwood) while keeping the water clear. Add activated charcoal and replace at most every 3 weeks.

In my 40gal Community tank, where I keep several species, such as Australian Rainbowfish, several Tetras and Rasboras (along with Corydoras and other peaceful fish), I place Activated Charcoal (in a small internal filter placed in the main tank, I think it's Tetra Whisper 5i) while I filter through peat (with aprox 35grams of Fluval Peat Fiber either placed in another internal filter -a Tetra Whisper 20i- that is located inside the return chamber or sump of the Wet/Dry filter).

I have used Fluval Peat Pellets, and in my experience you need a fair amount of water flow running through them for the pellets to work as well as the more loosely packed peat fiber. In my setting, the peat pellets work well only if placed at the intake (the overflow box) bot not inside one of the internal filters I have.

Please note that peat works its way quite slowly, so its easy to avoid pH crash by keeping an eye on KH. I monitor KH so it stays at or above 1.5 dKH.

Depending on the tank, peat fiber last from six to eight weeks.

I am extremely careful when I use peat combined with pressurized CO2 (my Apistogramma/Rams tank). I barely use 10-15 grams of peat fiber per 20 gals of water.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

 

[WhiteDevil]

Hi all,
you need the right peat, it needs to be "100% sphagnum moss peat", if it is potting compost or sedge peat it won't help at all.

White water species may not benefit from peat filtration, but I've never found it detrimental at all. Have a look at this thread:
http://www.forum.apistogramma.com/showthread.php?t=8189.

cheers Darrel

sphagnum or organic? Ive been told to use organic peat and from this side of the world thats what most use. I havnt used it yet due to having peat granules form fluval left over but within the month I am going to make peat bags.

I am using a HOT 250 for the peat exclusively.
Is there a list of WW and BW species?

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
My suspicion would be that "organic" is what we call sedge peat, the organic matter comprised of the dead remains of the sedges, rushes and reeds that grow in swamps and fens fed by ground water. Sphagnum peat is what it says it is the semi-decomposed remains of sphagnum moss, which has formed in "ombrotrophic(= rain fed) mires", this just means that the sphagnum is very efficient at exchanging H+ ions for the every sparse bases (Ca2+ etc.) in their habitat, and if left un-disturbed the mire grows as a huge mound of almost pure, water saturated moss/peat, the whole lot both very acid and extremely base poor (the water squeezed from sphagnum peat has virtually no conductivity, showing how few ions remain).

Sedge peat can range from base rich (formed in rich fens) to almost as base poor as sphagum peat. Have you got a pH meter? if you have you could make an extract from the available peats and see what the pH is. Terminalia catappa (Indian Almond) or Alder cones (Alnus glutinosa) might be better option.

Your best option for the pH range that the fish are found under is probably the DATZ German/English book "South American Dwarf Cichlids" by Stawikowski et al. I'm not sure how easily available this is now.

cheers Darrel