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Filtration and lighting
- Thread starter Rikadyn
- Start date
hi,
about the filter media, I think it depents of the measures of your tank. if you have a big tank you can make a owerflow and put a dry/wet.
in light, depents of the type of plants you put ....0.5w/L for easy plants or 1w/L for dificult plants.
about the filter media, I think it depents of the measures of your tank. if you have a big tank you can make a owerflow and put a dry/wet.
in light, depents of the type of plants you put ....0.5w/L for easy plants or 1w/L for dificult plants.
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- 1,191
- Location
- monroe, or
It really depends if you want a high light with co2 injection, or a low maintenance tank. Expense is a factor too. What are you wishing to have?
Neil
New Member
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- 1,583
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca.
Rikadyn,
WELCOME TO THE FORUM
Are you talking about filter media or filter? I think that you need to figure out what "type" of tank that you are going to have and then go from there. If you are planning a species or breeding tank, then you will want to make it as simple as possible. Foam filters, thin substrate (or barebottom), movable structure, etc. will allow you to clean the tank easily and "harvest" fry. The ideal set-up IME is 1/4" sand substrate, an adequate foam filter, some rocks or wood, a few caves, low-light plants and ambient (or single tube) lighting. If your tank easy to work in and you perform very regular water changes, you will probably have the best results.
However, if you are going for a planted aquaria, it is an entirely different ball of wax. Your maintenance and lighting will depend on many factors, some of which have been mentioned above.
Decide what you want first, then tackle the specifics!
Good luck,
Neil
WELCOME TO THE FORUM
Are you talking about filter media or filter? I think that you need to figure out what "type" of tank that you are going to have and then go from there. If you are planning a species or breeding tank, then you will want to make it as simple as possible. Foam filters, thin substrate (or barebottom), movable structure, etc. will allow you to clean the tank easily and "harvest" fry. The ideal set-up IME is 1/4" sand substrate, an adequate foam filter, some rocks or wood, a few caves, low-light plants and ambient (or single tube) lighting. If your tank easy to work in and you perform very regular water changes, you will probably have the best results.
However, if you are going for a planted aquaria, it is an entirely different ball of wax. Your maintenance and lighting will depend on many factors, some of which have been mentioned above.
Decide what you want first, then tackle the specifics!
Good luck,
Neil
I'm more or less planning a Biotope type tank for apistos (gonna try within reason of funds and my experience with the systems) so sand substrate (CaribSea Tahitian Black Moon) and lots of leaves in the system (given i can find oak trees, or any of the other trees will work(can fruit trees be used ??)) The filter to begin with will be a pair of sponge filters, and a Penguin 120, till i get a HOT Magnum 250gph, so its more a question of media than filter.
Neil
New Member
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- 1,583
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca.
Rikadyn,
Your foam filters are probably sufficient, but if you go with more filtration, you can certainly use it for peat. I am not big on the other types of filtration, because I believe that water changes are the best thing that you can do for these fish. Too much filtration gives you a false sense of security and allows you to be lax with water changes. Also, be aware that apistos and plants don't seem to like alot of water movement, so filtration should be "trickled". In a 30g., 2 foam filters are probably plenty.
Neil
Your foam filters are probably sufficient, but if you go with more filtration, you can certainly use it for peat. I am not big on the other types of filtration, because I believe that water changes are the best thing that you can do for these fish. Too much filtration gives you a false sense of security and allows you to be lax with water changes. Also, be aware that apistos and plants don't seem to like alot of water movement, so filtration should be "trickled". In a 30g., 2 foam filters are probably plenty.
Neil
Neil, you have all the reason. Changes of water are the best medicine.
i change at week over 20% of wather.
but i think the filter is the lung of the aquarium and it's very important have a good media filter.
actualy i'm ussing 2 filters for my 260 L tank. An eheim 2215 and 2213 but i'm looking for change one of that for another one more big.
the 2215 works mecanic and behind it was a diatom filter (i don´t know if this is the name in english, spanish name is Filtro de lechofluido). the other side of the tank have the 2213, it works like a normal filter.
i change at week over 20% of wather.
but i think the filter is the lung of the aquarium and it's very important have a good media filter.
actualy i'm ussing 2 filters for my 260 L tank. An eheim 2215 and 2213 but i'm looking for change one of that for another one more big.
the 2215 works mecanic and behind it was a diatom filter (i don´t know if this is the name in english, spanish name is Filtro de lechofluido). the other side of the tank have the 2213, it works like a normal filter.
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- 1,033
- Location
- toronto, canada
imo, a 250 magnum is too strong for a tank with fry, and has no flow adjustment. to tell the truth, i use aquaclears for my smaller tanks, except when planted with co2. i just swap in the magnum when needed.
rick
rick
Neil
New Member
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- 1,583
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca.
Heck, I have kept pairs in a tank with no filter. I would never advise anyone to do this, but it was fine. I used a small powerhead for slight water movement and live plants for some filtration help. The nitrifying bacteria is on all surfaces and the biolode with a pair of Dwarf Cichlids is so small that not alot of filtration is necessary. Of course I did very regular water changes.
I think it is best to change 1/3 to 1/2 tank water 1 time/week, if possible. I have so many tanks that sometimes I don't get to the for 2 weeks and do 90% water changes. I also usually do 90% water changes on a tank that I am setting up for breeding (taking one species or fry out and putting in an intended spawning pair in).
By the way, Rikadyn, what is nvm?
Neil
I think it is best to change 1/3 to 1/2 tank water 1 time/week, if possible. I have so many tanks that sometimes I don't get to the for 2 weeks and do 90% water changes. I also usually do 90% water changes on a tank that I am setting up for breeding (taking one species or fry out and putting in an intended spawning pair in).
By the way, Rikadyn, what is nvm?
Neil
thats right, you can have a natural media filter but discipline its very important to do that
I have a little tank of 8L and has no filter. the filter media are changes of water and natural plants like riccia, libnobium, rotalas and glossostigma. But i only have one fish there, one beta.
A good natural filtration needs a good development of plants. For this reason i place 1w/l of light, injection of CO2 and when i make the water changes ( 5L x week) i put some kind of fertilicer.
I have a little tank of 8L and has no filter. the filter media are changes of water and natural plants like riccia, libnobium, rotalas and glossostigma. But i only have one fish there, one beta.
A good natural filtration needs a good development of plants. For this reason i place 1w/l of light, injection of CO2 and when i make the water changes ( 5L x week) i put some kind of fertilicer.
