Beard algae

[swhiting]

Ugh! Black beard algae has destroyed two of my plant tanks. One is a 500 gallon tank that never had a chance to get going and the other is a 75 gallon tank that was looking beautiful, with excellent plant growth. Almost no nitrates and just trace amounts of phosphates. Dosed regularly with iron, potassium and seachem flourish. Also has CO2 injection. This algae has caused me much pain and stress. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Siamese algae eaters are not an option as my tanks have to be biotopes.

 

[Leipo]

Almost no nitrates

this may be your problem!
I had problems with algae in the past and solved it all with keeping my nitrates at 5mg/l, my phosphates near 0mg/l and my iron at 1mg/l

I found that if I keep my phosphates as close as possible to 0mg/l all my algea problems disappeared in a few weeks and they never came back ever since

so I say: keep your phosphates as the limiting growth-factor and not your nitrates.

 

[farm41]

Also has CO2 injection.

What is your co2 level? If too low many forms of algea can take advantage.

 

[swhiting]

CO2 level is closer to being too high rather than too low, but i don't think its even too high. I had read that the algae comes as a result of a nitrate/phosphate imbalance. With out actually dosing with a nitrate where should i get this source, i dont want to feed more, raising phosphates. Or should i just go get a nitrate fertilizer? Also, physically removing it will prove extremely difficult. Will this be necessary once the water chemistry issue is fixed, or should it die on its own?

 

[Leipo]

since I have the same problem (I don't want to feed more since that will also increase my phosphates) I up my nitrates with KNO3 which I bought at the local drugstore.

after the algae stopped growing the snails in my tank ate it all in a few weeks time. so with keeping your waterchemistry in check and with patience it can all be fixed

 

[farm41]

CO2 level is closer to being too high rather than too low

Did you test it? How you know? What is the co2 concentration?

IMO co2 is the most important factor.

 

[LyreTail]

keeping a planted tank is a balancing act of nutrients

CO2 20 to 30 mg/l

GH and KH between 2 and 5 degrees unless working with acid plants. Some plants do not tollerate very hard water or acid water well

Nitrate 2 to 5 mg/l

potassium 10 to 20 mg/l

phosphate <.5 mg/l

Light 2 to 4 watts per gallon of full spectrum ( yes light is a nutrient )

Iron in substrate or iron in water column - should just register possitive

Traces - Purchase a good wide spectrum trace fert like "Flourish"

Heavy root feeders such as swords and crypts need substrate feedings

 

[CKfish]

For removal of the existing algae, you can either use manual techniques (scrape it) or introduce even temporarily some fish that will eat the beard algae. My rosey barbs seem to do a pretty good job of it. You can always remove them to another tank later.

 

[aquabillpers]

Hi,

It has been said that the way to combat algae in a planted aquarium is to have healthy, growing plants. Excessive algae is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself.

The most important "input" to a planted tank is light. It is possible to have a great planted aquarium with only atmospheric CO2, but plants will die without proper lighting. Most lights lose intensity over time, even though they appear OK to the human eye. How old are your lights, and what kind do you have?

The zero nitrate level suggests that something is consuming it, assuming that your test kit is accurate. Dosing nitrates might help. How heavy is your fish load? They will add nitrates too.

For how long had the aquarium been set up before the algae started to appear? New plants often can live in bad environments for a while because of the energy reserves that they bring with them. And what kinds and numbers of plants did you start with?

Good luck!

Bill

 

[swhiting]

thanks everyone for your replies. I pretty sure my tests are accurate we use a Hach spectrophotometer. I haven't tested co2, you're right i really dont know what the levels are. I just replaced the 2 vho aquasuns on the 75 and replaced the halide (400watt 6500k) in the 450. the 75 is just a tank in the front office, barbs are a possibilty, but the bigger tank is an exhibit and adding fish not from south america would be a problem, not to mention extremely difficult to catch out. the exhibit is (unfortunately) almost 4 and 1/2 foot tall. it really shouldnt be a plant tank, but not my decision. im sure this has something to do with my problems. im going to really start looking into trying to get my chemistry in check. i'll probably start with phosphate sponges and the addition of nitrates. i'll see about testing co2. again thanks.