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Stomatepia Pindu

chromis

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Can anyone give me any advice on what I need to consider if I decide to get them? I have recently seem some wild specimens in my regular LFS and have been smitten. Can I mix this with Pelvicachromis species as I have some Pelvicachromis pulcher and humilis as well as some Nanochromis nudiceps in the tank I am planning to home them in.

Many thanks

chromis
 

Randall

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Hello Chromis,

Stomatepia pindu can be an active species that generally don't bother heterospecifics. However, their larger size (about 5") should be taken into consideration.

It is a maternal ovophilic mouthbrooder that doesn't seem to be too picky about water chemistry. As far as we know, Lake Barombi Mbo in Cameroon is slightly soft and slightly alkaline, so housing it with species that prefer very soft and acidic water may not be appropriate.

Of the three species that you mention in your post, the Pelvicachromis pulcher or the P. humilis may be the better tank mates. Unless the tank is very large, however, housing both of the Pelvicachromis species together may prove socially problematic. Nanochromis nudiceps (probably N. parilus) is a match as far as water parameters go, but their much smaller size should be taken into consideration.

I admire you for wanting to try your hand with a Lake Barombi Mbo species. They are fascinating.

Good luck!

Randall Kohn
 

chromis

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London, UK
Thanks Randall

I was wondering whether the size of the Nanochromis would be a factor. The tank is a 75UKG tank (4'). Would this be big enough for both Pelvicachromis species? Would a pair of each be okay?
 

Randall

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Housing Pelvicachromis spp.

Hello Chromis,

This is a judgement call. From what I understand, Pelvicachromis humilis is a larger and more formidable species than P. pulcher. My concern is that even in a larger tank, the P. pulcher could be bullied to death should the P. humilis spawn. If the tank is very well planted and many hiding places are furnished, it may help; but I'd be reluctant to try it.

Perhaps P. signatus, a Benitochromis sp. or a Chromidotilapia sp. would make more suitable tankmates.

Good luck!

Randall Kohn
 

Blackshark667766

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Location
Abernethy, Scotland
Pelvicachromis mixtures

Hi Chromis,

I once tried to keep Pelvicachromis pulcher (F1 (believed from Nigeria) and subocellatus pairs in a 250 litre tank. The pulcher were never really happy, and I lost the subocellatus female, before experimentation could really begin. Perhaps there is lesson to be learned from my mistakes :( ,


Ironically, around the same time, I was forced (by major disaster) to house a fully grown female Tilapia mariae with several juvenile P. pulcher, temporarily, in a 3' (90 litre) tank. To my astonishment, they almost completely ignored each other (up to a point)!



Nick
 

chromis

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41
Location
London, UK
Thank you for that Randall.

At the moment, the Pelv pulcher are the bullies in the tank and they harass the humilis whenever they get near their territory. We will be moving soon and (hopefully) acquire a bigger tank where I can transfer the humilis. They seem to be able to hold their own and there are loads of caves and plants they can hide in in the meantime.

It is very difficult to find West African species here in the UK although I guess I am lucky enough to have a fish shop that can order them for me when they turn up on the list.

Not sure if this is a problem but in London, water is on the hard side (around pH7.4) and although the fish my lfs stock are acclimated and live long in the shop, they don't seem to last long in my tanks. A good example are the Pelvicachromis Taeniatus species.

Any advice on this? Am I doing something wrong?
 

Blackshark667766

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Abernethy, Scotland
Moribund pelvicachromis sp.

:( Check your nitrates Chromis. I lived in London from '82 - '89, and the nitrate level even, then was appalling. I hear matters have not really improved, since. It might be worth investing in a small reverse osmosis unit, to assist in gradually bringing the water quality around. I understand that some specialist companies may even deliver R.O water to your door for a few pence per litre.

You don't describe any symptoms prior to death, but I've found in the past that Pelvicachromis spp. are extremely susceptible to a variety of bacterial infections (internal and external) when subjected to unacceptable levels of nitrates (>50ppm).

Hope this helps :!: ,


Nick
 

chromis

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London, UK
Thanks for that blackshark! I haven't noticed anything obvious as mostly just slow down and start breathing heavy. They usually recover but after a few days they would disappear from sight and I would next see them dead. 8O :cry:

I have also noticed on a few occasions that they would look bloated so I have put these instances to internal bacterial infection. I am looking into getting an RO filter but know nothing on how to install or start them. I've heard of some that you only need to attach to a tap when you need to. Is this correct?

My nitrate levels are around 20ppm and perform weekly 25% water changes. I cannot tell you what the levels are when I use to have Pelv. Taeniatus unfortunately. The ones I have at the moment (no Pelv. Taeniatus though) are doing fine and very active. Here's keeping my fingers crossed!
 

Blackshark667766

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5 Year Member
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Location
Abernethy, Scotland
Nitrate levels ???? + ?!

:eek: 20ppm nitrates seems Hellishly high. My two pairs of F2 taeniatus ""molewe" [sorry - I've 'ad a few] have already setup and and are preparing to spawn in a 70L tank. This was primarily meant as an isolation tank but.... who am I.. Even if it turns out to be merely practice.


This is a "potential" recipe for disaster as far as I can see, (unless they they do the "usual" , and pretend to "nick each other's fry", then pretend to hate the "dither" fish.

Either way: 20ppm seems too high. :( Just like R.,I lived in West Africa for many years. I would like (love) to revisit those places in a different way - but I can't. Lumley beach and Bureh Town are gone to me.(Freetown). Again, I recommend that you gently drop both your acidity and gH/Kh to more acceptable levels. To quote the "Landerers" (of which I was proud to be a part of once), pH 7.4 is Bang out of order). Nitrates are also a big issue.

You really need to address the question of supplementing your "tap" water with that of Reverse osmosis water.

This is a question of degree:

1) Do you want "tough" fish that will survive extreme conditions

2) Or some fish that might make the "grade", then "run out of breath", because they weren't meant to be bred in the first place, and yet be offered for sale.

I know where I stand - But it is difficult for an outsider, to draw breath from an already crowded bubble of thought.

Be brave, and make your own mind up,


Nick
 

chromis

New Member
5 Year Member
Messages
41
Location
London, UK
Thanks for the advice Nick!

I am actually at this moment waiting to collect the new RO filter I have just recently purchased. It will be a while before it is up and running and the fact that we are moving house in the near future doesn't encourage me to get it started yet.

I will keep an eye on the nitrate levels. Had been busy with work and have missed a few nitrat tests on the tanks.

By the way, do you know how I can have the RO filter installed? And would I need a container to keep the filtered water in? Sorry, this is my first time with RO water and I need more information on installation and running.

Thanks!
chromis
 

Blackshark667766

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5 Year Member
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Location
Abernethy, Scotland
Reverse osmosis units: installation and use of.

:) My first instinct would be to simply to advise you to call out a plumber. However, being a thrifty Scotsman ("Jock") :lol: , I see no need for you to take perhaps one or even more days off work and then be further penalised by additional charges of potentially £100's for what really should be a comparatively very simple and inexpensive D.I.Y operation. This would require me to go into great detail, in order to guarantee/maximise success.

May I politely suggest that the "intricacies" of the process be tranferred to the private message board in order to avoid the potential wrath of the Webmaster; perhaps I "hazard", not just strictly on the grounds of possible irrelevence to "dwarf cichlids" per se. :arrow:

Later, you may find the experience useful enough to form part of an essay, for possible submission to the forum, and thence to benefit others.
We are all here to learn; and I hope, never at the expense of anyone else. May I humbly point out that I have no wish to cause offence to members of that ancient and honourable craft.



Nick
 

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