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Help me choose an RO filter

MacZ

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Messages
4,323
Location
Germany
I don’t believe the physical connections but all of jargon that seems to come along with it.
There's jargon for every technology. I have the same with cars. I find them truely complicated tech and I have basically no more than the basics when it comes to how it works.

Good to know about the water softener. I will have to connect the RO unit before the water softener.
Definitely the right decision!
 

Mike Wise

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Staff member
5 Year Member
Messages
11,869
Location
Denver, Colorado, U.S.A.
anewbie: I don't use a DI cartridge. I leave that unit empty. I don't need 0 µS water and feel that it is a waste of money since I would just be adding organics to it anyway. My water was good enough that for years I kept a breeding colony of cardinal tetras reproducing in it. I only change my micron & carbon filters when I see the intake pressure start to rise. Then I know the cartridges are clogging. This means once each year on average. The R/O membrane has never been changed in the 10+ years that I've used it. I'll know when it needs changing when the water conductivity rises above 40-50 µS.
 

dw1305

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Messages
2,980
Location
Wiltshire UK
Hi all,
Forgot to mention my tap water is already very soft.
It makes a huge difference.

We get through a lot of DI water (and consumables) at work, and the consumables are because the tap water is about 18dGh / 18 dKH and ~700 microS.

At home we have similar tap water, but I just use rain-water in the tanks. It stops me from keeping any real blackwater fish, but that is a compromise I'm willing to make.

cheers Darrel
 

Mike Wise

Moderator
Staff member
5 Year Member
Messages
11,869
Location
Denver, Colorado, U.S.A.
As I wrote 90 gal/day at 35µS/cm is "good enough" for me. If I ever do, I'd just add D/I cartridge to my existing unit or replace them membrane. I doubt that I - or my fish - need more than what I have now.
 

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Hi,

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