I agree. Not the best, but good enough for the start.Even a cheap one is better than nothing. You may find that the conductivity of your tap water fluctuates, so it will be good to correlate it with breeding success. At the very least, you'll know whether or not your water is in a permissive regime.
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With more peat you can get lower. But this comes with the problem of oxygen.I have used peat for a long time and I went to a 7,5 ph to a stable 6,5 with peat so that positive but I don’t now if it is even possible to lower the ph more. I will add more peat. And once a week after the water change at a brew. I can prepare the changing water. Is that so dangerous. I feel like I have it more in the hand then right?
When working with humic substances there is no danger from other parameters. pH and TDS changes have to happen fast to be dangerous. A pH-change of 2-3 points is harmless when happening over the course of 4-5 hours, but fatal if happening in less than 30 minutes. Same goes for TDS (then it's a problem of osmoregulation): From 200mg/l tapwater to 20mg/l blackwater is a big difference that requires acclimation.
You can try, but it will be mostly for the looks.I could do this with boiling aquarium water with a lower ph gh and kh than tap water. Is it advisable to use more peat so maybe 300 grams or more just figuring that out or won’t it change anything. I hope this helps these fish also I like the brown water. For me it can get a lot darker then now.
Strange tbh, I have found there're three countries that share the number one spot of being THE fishkeeper nations here in Europ: NL, DE, UK.I will make this brew thanks a lot for helping again. (I do really enjoy learning things about the hobby. Where I live I can’t get in touch with people to talk and discuss the job hobby. I can only talk and discuss the hobby on forums or a little in de lfs.)
I have contacts to dutch aquarists just as much as to German or UK hobbyists. And not only due to forums. On the other hand... I speak a little dutch, so probably that helps.