Atahualupa experience

[Jwitho]

I have a 75cmx45cmx30xcm tank I’m currently using to attempt to spawn Hyphessobrycon procyon, and I’m considering adding a pair of apistogramma to it, to grow on and either have a dedicated spawning tank or move them into my main South America display
what’s everyone’s experience with keeping Apistogramma atahualupa?

 

[Mike Wise]

One of the more aggressive apisto species, especially when breeding.

 

[Jwitho]

One of the more aggressive apisto species, especially when breeding.

The tank will likely become theirs for a while until I can source some a.kullanderi
It’s currently a bare tank due to breeding purposes but throwing in a ton of seed pods tonight to create caves along with a big of random decor to break sight lines
Running RO remineralised to KH 3 and pH 6 currently, so parameters should bring out the best too

Edit: thinking about agression, would a trio be a preferred dynamic? Similar to trifas

 

[Mike Wise]

If you really need to remineralize your R/O, use tapwater. Forget the expense and waste of using chemicals. They will actually be just as happy in straight R/O. Organics in the tank will change the water values anyway.

 

[Jwitho]

If you really need to remineralize your R/O, use tapwater. Forget the expense and waste of using chemicals. They will actually be just as happy in straight R/O. Organics in the tank will change the water values anyway.

Working in an aquatic shop I luckily had access to remineralisers but I will keep that in mind for the future
The main thing was wanting to breed different fish which would require different parameters

 

[Mike Wise]

Remineralising chemicals (salts) will simply raise the conductivity of the water; not the best for softwater fish.

 

[Jwitho]

Remineralising chemicals (salts) will simply raise the conductivity of the water; not the best for softwater fish.

Well I’m not using true mineralisers, it’s the seachem acid buffer and alkali buffer so maybe the same thing but not sure?
Picked a pair up will monitor and grab an extra female if needed
And then I’ll gradually just change the tank over to pure RO over time

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Well I’m not using true mineralisers, it’s the seachem acid buffer and alkali buffer so maybe the same thing but not sure?

Neither of these are actually buffers and both them are equally useless.

Mike is right, just use a dash of tap if you want some hardness and alkalinity - <"https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/the-original.70360/page-2#post-704571">.

I have a jaundiced view, but I truly believe Seachem's only I interest is in converting your money into their money.

Their genius is to find a cheap product and then sell it for an immense mark-up.

Have a look at these posts on UKAPS:
This one explains what <"Equilibrium"> really is and this one covers <"buffers">. This is another <"buffer"> one.

And then I’ll gradually just change the tank over to pure RO over time

Perfect.

Cheers Darrel

 

[anewbie]

Hi all,

Neither of these are actually buffers and both them are equally useless.

Mike is right, just use a dash of tap if you want some hardness and alkalinity - <"https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/the-original.70360/page-2#post-704571">.

I have a jaundiced view, but I truly believe Seachem's only I interest is in converting your money into their money.

Their genius is to find a cheap product and then sell it for an immense mark-up.

Have a look at these posts on UKAPS:
This one explains what <"Equilibrium"> really is and this one covers <"buffers">. This is another <"buffer"> one.

Perfect.

Cheers Darrel

And nothing beats 'aquarium' salt. You can buy 50 lb agricultural salt for around $0.25 a lb or pay $8 for 33 oz of api rock salt (though to be fair the pond version is a little cheaper per pond).

Oh well some people sleep better getting the aquarium version of equaliberum rather then mixing their own for pennies.

I would recommend a tds meter of some sort if you do use salt so you can get a sense of impact. Of course to be fair a few decaying leaves can do wonder to your tds... at least i've noticed as much as +30 tds at times though it usually breaks down fast enough or too fast.

 

[Jwitho]

Hi all,

Neither of these are actually buffers and both them are equally useless.

Mike is right, just use a dash of tap if you want some hardness and alkalinity - <"https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/the-original.70360/page-2#post-704571">.

I have a jaundiced view, but I truly believe Seachem's only I interest is in converting your money into their money.

Their genius is to find a cheap product and then sell it for an immense mark-up.

Have a look at these posts on UKAPS:
This one explains what <"Equilibrium"> really is and this one covers <"buffers">. This is another <"buffer"> one.

Perfect.

Cheers Darrel

And nothing beats 'aquarium' salt. You can buy 50 lb agricultural salt for around $0.25 a lb or pay $8 for 33 oz of api rock salt (though to be fair the pond version is a little cheaper per pond).

Oh well some people sleep better getting the aquarium version of equaliberum rather then mixing their own for pennies.

I would recommend a tds meter of some sort if you do use salt so you can get a sense of impact. Of course to be fair a few decaying leaves can do wonder to your tds... at least i've noticed as much as +30 tds at times though it usually breaks down fast enough or too fast.

Thank you both of you, I’ll stop using these now
The atahuapla are in the tank now, male is going to be an absolute stunner in the future, will grab photos once settled properly