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Info on apistos, and their ability to be dithers?

P

PC2

Guest
Hello, i'm new to this site, recommended here by someone from http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/ for a bit more specified information.

I am planning a hex tank with angels and some kuhli loaches. I want something that is on the smaller size, showy finned, colorful, yet kind enough that it can be considered a dither fish for my kuhli loaches. I am seriously contemplating some A. bitaeniata for the dither fish if i can put them in the same tank as my kuhlis and angels. From what little information i've found, they stay small, peaceful (unless spawning most likely) and are mid swimmers. The tank will have a terrace effect of PVC piping and slate in layers to provide ample hiding space and area for planting, maybe even breeding if the fish so choose.

I was also looking into some A. borellis for my 30g long to go with my cories and perhaps a BN pleco. I plan to have about 6 cories schooling in the 30g long. It is a well planted tank with good aeration and half the tank has a good amount of current beneath the filter flow. I currently have 4 male "fancy" guppies in the 30g to keep them from chasing my females to death. Would they have to move if i got several A. borellis? The tank is currently well planted with cabomba, a red melon sword, anarchis, some dwarf hairgrass, and a single wendtii.

These are the questions i would like answered about the A. borellis, and the A. bitaeniata dwarf cichlids::
How hard are they to breed?
What's a good number for breeding them?
What do they need to breed?
Are there any plants they prefer, preferrably low to medium light ones?
How peaceful are they towards bottom dwellers?
What do they prefer to eat? Anything special for treats?
Are they fin nippers?
Can i put them in my tanks i want to put them in?

Thanks in advance for any information anyone can provide for me! ;)
 

Apistt_ed

New Member
..

Hello Pc, hopefully I can help a little in answering your questions...

These are the questions i would like answered about the A. borellis, and the A. bitaeniata dwarf cichlids::
How hard are they to breed?
As to breed A. Borellii & A. bitaeniata, if you are asking how "tricky" it is to breed them, it's a matter of how much time and effort you are going to put into the preparation of water parameters and so on. If you are planning on breeding them for large successful "clutches" you might have to separate them from the other bottom dwellers (such as corydoras, loaches, plecos, and even the angels etc.) that WILL most likely eat the eggs before they even develope. Both species are fairly easy to breed but I think they are far more precious to be dither fish, just my thought on it though.

What's a good number for breeding them?
A. borellii are very peaceful dwarf cichlids and I have had colonies consisting of four males & 6 females in a 55gallon with pencil fishes and a couple tetras and there weren't any big problems, just "typical", if you want to call it typical, cichlid squabbles. A. Bitaeniata are better/ more peaceful if kept as trios (1male &2 females) because they are a little more aggressive towards their own species. In your 30 gallon tank I would say it'd be possible to hold up to two trios of A. Borellii (2males & 4 females) or one trio of A. bitaeniatas (1 male/2females) without any problems and have breeding occur.

What do they need to breed?
As most dwarf cichlids, they will need soft and slightly acidic water ph of about 5,6-6,0 to breed successfully but will be capable of living in water up to neutral ph, but won't be as "happy" as they could be in water that most closely resembles their natural habitat and not live as long. Along with regular water changes and plenty of hiding spots (caves, coconut shells halved used as makeshift caves along with clay pots, plants, and drift wood) they'll thrive fine.

Are there any plants they prefer, preferrably low to medium light ones?
I don't know if they'd prefer plants but as long as there's enough plants to hide in, they'll be comfortable and fine. Many of us in here use Oak leaves piled up as hiding places, amazon swords, java moss, and java ferns as regular decor for our tanks. Of course any plant will do as well.

How peaceful are they towards bottom dwellers?
A. borellii are very peaceful towards other tankmates and towards their own also. A. Bitaeniata are great tankmates as well also but will show more aggression. Like all cichlids though, they will be more aggressive when breeding and while taking care of their fry, etc.

What do they prefer to eat? Anything special for treats?
Live blackworms, brine shrimp (frozen or live), and Flakes. Of course there are more food options for them but depending on the fish you get, they might have to be weened to take flakes and soaked cichlid pellets. The most important thing is that you do change their diet every so often to keep them healthy and happy.
Are they fin nippers?
As far as I know they aren't fin nippers as long as the other fish don't nip their fins.
Can i put them in my tanks i want to put them in?
Of couse you could put them in any tank you have listed so far but you will have to keep in mind that they are fish and sometimes even the most peaceful of fish can have tempers at times and not always "predictable".

well, that took a while... but hopefully this helps you out a little. Feel free to post any concerns or further questions.
 
P

PC2

Guest
Wow, that helped quite a bit. Thank you very much. A few more questions if you don't mind.

My tap water runs at about 7.5 for pH. I am planning to use peat fiber (the boxed stuff) to reduce the pH and maybe see if i can come across some driftwood. I'm searching my LFSs for the stuff, since PetsMart has stopped selling it for some odd reason. 0.o;

I am going to end up putting a large number of plants in my 30g long, simply because my cories seem to love them so. I am also going to get two or so more caves and add them to the 30g long and hide them in amongst the plants, with only the openings showing. My guess is that with such a long tank, even though i have a rather large roman column circlet in the tank, it will give ample hiding places for everyone i house in there.

The tank i want to put the A. bitaeniata in is a 42g hex that is about 2' tall and almost the same wide. I plan to put 2 angels in there, possibly a third if i end up with a friend's lone angel. I will have a single L260 in the tank with 3-4 kuhli loaches. I'm looking for about 6-8" of adult fish for dithers for this tank.

About how many A. bitaeniata should i put in the 42g hex tank?
What are the ideal pH and softness/hardness range, etc. for these two species of dwarf cichlids?
What are good signs to look for when buying specimens from these two species?
What are signs to watch out for when keeping these fish?
What is a good temperature for these fish to live in?
What is a good size to buy these fish at?
Will i have to move the male guppies if i get a trio or two of A. borelli for the 30g long?
 

2la

New Member
5 Year Member
Messages
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Location
Portland, Oregon, USA
Have patience; we all try to help when we can get a break from real life issues. ;) I'll answer what I can...

PC2 said:
About how many A. bitaeniata should i put in the 42g hex tank?
One male and two, maybe three females. Hex tanks provide less floorspace, gallon-for-gallon, than 'standard' rectangular tanks, leaving less room for males and females to stake out their own territories. Breeder-type tanks represent the optimum configuration, usually.

PC2 said:
What are good signs to look for when buying specimens from these two species?
The things I look for in all dwarf cichlids when making a purchase are, in order of priority:

General appearance (avoid those with lesions or discolored patches on the skin, bulging eyes, overly arched spines, concave abdomens, missing scales, irregular black patches on the skin, mouths that won't close or are otherwise misshapen, etc.)
Assertiveness (chasing others from their territory, splaying fins out)
Activity (avoid the sloths, wallflowers, and shrinking violets)
Feeding (if you're able to observe them with food in the water, go for the ones that are eating well and get their fair share--and then some)
Color (distinguish between the overlying irridescence and the underlying black markings--if a fish continuously shows more of the latter, it may be a sign of poor health, subordinate position, or otherwise stressed state; lemon-yellow females are always a good bet)
Finnage (bigger is better, of course; fish with bitten/torn/shredded fins will usually regenerate them if they affect only the soft rays, but they probably won't grow back if the hard rays are damaged)
Coupling (if possible, obtain a pair that are already interested in each other)

PC2 said:
What are signs to watch out for when keeping these fish?
The same things you look for in other fish that might indicate poor health: loss of color, wasting, hollow belly, arched spine, white and/or string feces, clamped fins, rapid breathing, inactivity, unchanging prominent black markings, loss of appetite/refusal to feed, etc. In addition, be mindful of injuries such as frayed fins that may indicate excessive aggression towards an individual(s).

PC2 said:
What is a good temperature for these fish to live in?
Mid- to upper-70s is good. Hatch ratios of males to females may be temperature-dependent, though, so bear that in mind if you plan to breed them.

PC2 said:
What is a good size to buy these fish at?
I don't (or try not to) buy any fish that aren't at a sexable state of maturity. For most apistos, this usually occurs at about 1" to 1-1/2", depending on the adult size of the species and the degree of sexual dimorphism/dichromatism the species exhibits.

PC2 said:
Will i have to move the male guppies if i get a trio or two of A. borelli for the 30g long?
I highly doubt it. A. borellii are probably the shyest and most peaceful of all apistos, and even when being aggressive/territorial they inflict little damage, if any, towards other fish--even guppies, I would suspect. It's always good to have a spare tank setup on hand, though, just in case.
 
P

PC2

Guest
Okay, thanks. The 42g hex will have a set up with thick PVC and slate set up, a sort of stacking of them. It may give them a bit more space to claim out territories in the terrace i'm building. Thanks for the help people!! ;)
 

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