fungus inhibitor for eggs

[lonlangione]

What fungus inhibitors do you use for artifically hatching eggs. I have been getting eggs from my Tilapia ruweti every Saturday like clockwork. I have written about this before. There are two females in this tank and they alternate breeding with the male. If I let the eggs in with them they will let them hatch and if I don't get them right away they eat the fry. The first time I got ten fry and managed to save two feeding golden pearls. I now have fresh brine shrimp eggs and have baby brine available all the time. I pulled the river stone out and put it in a tank with RO water in it and three fry hatched before the eggs fungused. I put alder cones in the tank a few weeks ago and when I pulled the eggs I also inoculated the water with some alder cone "wine". This worked to a point, I have about 12 fry. I am not home much these days till the week of the 19th. Can anyone suggest a fungicide? I guess I will also buy an egg tumbler but how do I get the eggs off a river stone without damaging them. It is quite frustrating when they are laying 100's of eggs and only getting 2 - 10 out of a spawn.

Thanks, Lonny

 

[Mike Wise]

The old stand-by is Methylene Blue dye. I don't think you want to use an egg tumbler on these eggs. Tumblers are mostly used for mouthbrooding cichlids, whose eggs are not sticky. Treat the eggs like angelfish breeders do.

 

[viejo]

I would also like to add that it is much better to place the eggs in clean water as opposed to water from the tank.

 

[Yo-han]

I used esha2000 when I was breeding angelfish. Did the trick for me and also benificial for less dropout during the first few weeks...

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
I'd be tempted to try "Esha2000", but I'm not sure you can get it in the US.
These are the ingredients:

ESHA 2000 (UK) - contains:
6.3 mg Ethacridine lactate, (AKA: Rivanol an antibacterial acridine)
1 mg Proflavin, an acridine closely related to acriflavin
3.2 mg Copper ++ -
0.26 mg Methyl Orange.

I usually use alder cones rather than methylene blue these days, as it is less messy and seems more effective.

cheers Darrel

 

[electric eel]

actually methylene blue is supposedly a poor antibacterial.its main benefit is somehow it enhances oxygen uptake.when i hatched angelfish eggs in the past i would use gallon jugs with ro water which i shocked with 10 drops of 30percent pure hydrogen peroxide.i would add a couple drops of methyline blue and one drop of acriflavine per gallon of water.it worked really well.i discovered later that i had just as good of luck(if not better) with meth. blue and a couple alder cones per jug.i always sterilized everything with a mixture of about half a cup of unscented bleach to one gallon hot water.the jug,the airline,breeding slate,air wand.rinse every thing really well and RINSE AGAIN!don't know about the eggs you are trying to hatch but i was told by steve from angels plus that angelfish eggs are temp sensitive so i always tried to keep the temp in the jugs within plus or minus one degree f. of the tank they came out of.try putting the stone in a gallon jug with a 3 inch airwand and see how that works.you can put the jug in a 10 gallon tank with about 3 inches of water and a heater to regulate temp and you can put a spare jug in the 10 also so you will have a ready source of water the same temp if you find the need to do a partial water change on the hatching jug.

 

[sasikan]

i use methylene blue with my rams eggs and angelfish eggs i rinse my one gallon jar with boiling water then i add water from the breeding tank only. i use to go half and half with ro water and water from the breeding tank ,but i seem to get better results with just the breeding tank water.After they are hatched i do 50 % water change still using water from the breeding tank ( i do have a air stone in there)

 

[electric eel]

glad you are having luck with your tank water but personally i wouldnt do it that way.there are strains of angelfish that the eggs will hatch in almost any water but i have had strains(half black blue blushing,half black,blue blushing,double dark and koi to name a few) that the only way i ever got them to hatch and survive was to go to extremely anal retentive lengths.using ro water and sterilizing everything and even doing partial water changes on the jugs after the eggs hatched.i have a nice koi pair that is hatching and raising fry in their breeding tank with nothing in the water but in my experience this is not the norm.i am sure that it varies from place to place depending on the hardness and quality of the water as to what lengths one has to go to to get the eggs to hatch.i found in my personal experience that anything (even seemingly insignificant things like washing your hands when setting up the hatching jugs) that eliminates possible sources of bacterial contamination is beneficial.it is not always necessary to go to extreme lengths but sometimes it is .