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Just adding distilled water alone will not significantly change your pH. It dilutes the acids or bases in your your water, but to have a significant effect you'd have to use e.g. 10x as much distilled water compared to tap. Even with a lot of dilution the pH will only come down to about 7.
You...
I feed a mix of good quality flakes and micro pellets as staple with the addition of some life food (BBS and microworms, mozzie larvae in summer, occasionally black worms) a few times a week. Fry are raised on life food food to start with, then switched over to flakes.
A good starting point for getting some info is here at http://dwarfcichlid.com/index.php
You can keep individual males, they'll be fine. As pointed out above if the conditions are halfway right you are bound to get fry if you have a male with one or two females. If you don't want to raise the...
Fine sand is best as a substrate as apistos like to sift through that in the search of food. Plants are up to you depending on how much time you are willing to spent on maintenance. A. cacatuoides are not that fussy about the water, just stay away from heavy fertilising regimes. The sand...
It is an A. cacatuoides, but it may be difficult to get one that looks just like it as there are a large number of man made strains out there.
They are usually bred for more red and black in their fins (double red, triple red etc.) and there are also varieties available that have orange fins...
I usually remove the fry when they are 2-3 weeks old by siphoning them out. By that time they are robust enough not to suffer too much from the transfer. At this stage they are still young enough that they usually stick together and close to the mother which makes it easy to get most of them in...
Defrost smaller portions? Once the stuff is thawed it starts to go off quickly. Alternatively you could try to get them into something like a nice cube tray and freeze again for later use, maybe?
I have had them breed in anything from 24 to 32 degrees. For breeding itself temperature is not that important in my experience, although they are a bit more prolific at higher temperatures. The main reason for changing the temp is probably to influence the m/f ratio in the fry
I feed mine mostly Ocean Nutrition Cichlid Omniflakes and NLS Grow, even the wild caught fish take it readily. But then I have had only a few wc fish so I probably just got lucky
Darrel makes a very good point with the BOD.
I wouldn't worry about die off of the bacterial colonies, once they are established you have to do some fairly drastic things to kill them off. If there is a lack of nutrients many species just switch into a dormant state and spring back once...
Plants are the best and easiest options to cycle your tank. There are plenty of established bacterial colonies on them and especially the substrate they come with. Plants also can directly absorb ammonia from the water which helps as well.
Fast growing plants and/or floaters are best for this...
If you don't have plants the colour of the light is more of a personal preference.
For a breeding tank I wouldn't choose very bright lights which might make the fish feel more exposed. Floating plants are another option that will make the fish feel safer in brighter lights
Don't forget that they will search for food and eat all the time, not just when you add some food to the tank. All the 'dead' food will travel with the current and eventually sink to the bottom where the foraging fry will find and eat it once they are past that initial period where they only...
Several feeds during the day are not bad per es, just make sure the total amount is not too much, most people tend to overfeed.
If you are worried that your apistos don't get enough food, get sinking micro pellets, start feeding with a little flake on one side, add the sinking food on the other...