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I've been wondering about the 120 x 50 Thing, From what i have heard the rule is 1 square foot per (dwarf) Cichlid, 30 x 30, so basically 1 10g floor per Apisto, but you recomend more, is this an experience thing or more of a hunch, wondering for cross comparision
Are there any species of hatchet fish that are tolerant of hard water, asking since breeding dithers would be nice for my 29 and philly water is practically Just liquid brick
I dont have any experience with breeding apistos but I would say that a good idea is Breeding and then making it into a display tank once you're done with breeding and raising fry.
It's not antagonistic, its dissecting an argument, your argument being that the fish would be lonely implies that you think of them in human terms, his point makes simple sense, right now you are the one choosing to take it as an offense. Also fact of the matter is that having an adult female...
From my understanding a ridge of sorts, about 6 inches high could basically work as a divider in miniature (sight break).
Also, this is thankfully a hypothetical and the main reason I am trying to figure out how many borelli I can fit in my setups with out endangering the fish is simply...
2 thoughts, 1, what about 2 females with a divider, like i currently have in the 10g (though one is male).
And Honestly I thought that a 20g footprint is enough for 2 males, seeing as they are comfortable alone in tanks smaller then 10g, do you think that It could actually work with 2 if I...
Hmm... makes sense, do you think 3 females could work in a heavily planted 10g, thinking that I would keep 6 fish total (including the parents) 3 male and 3 female, do you think that could work?
Simple, Quick Filters.
With enough circulation i believe fertilization does become impossible if i am remembering right.
I do have a 37 that is currently running, (though as is it most definitely is no place for a cichlid) and if any fish in particular are being harried I plan to keep the 10g...
The plan is to breed the fish (im actually thinking I will do it in the 29), then grow out the fry, then sell off most of them (keep a few and probably the parents) and then turn the 29 into a planted community tank, basically a more community oriented, non breeding version of Samala's Borellii...
My 10g has somthing the fry need, Malm, I don't have any starter food, just BBS for when they are big enough, so at the start they will probably eat the small crustaceans in the tank that thrive off of it
So I plan to breed my A.borellii pair in the near future, obviously a 10g is not enough for 10-30 some fry, and I will need a grow out tank. Thankfully, I have an empty 29g tank, which I plan to use for growing out. After I grow out the fry I plan to keep a few, say 3-6 of them, Obviously I will...
My A.Borellii (tank bred), at the very least are highly determined to try to eat the snails in their tank, they never do seem to actually get the snails though, maybe im just not noticing any empty shells. The behavior mimics this a lot. though when striking I notice that for a second the male...
Personally, seems like a great tank for 1 caucatoides male, he'll add a lovely spark to it. though, you might have to change diet, If you look through this forum, bloodworms can be dangerous. I personally just use brineshrimp.
This is a testament to our community, we have revived a dead thread that only had 1 post into an active conversation. Well done Apistogramma.com!
Also I do have a thought, if Borelli and Trifaciata are morphologically similar, and live in the same drainage basin (the paraguay), do you think...
I am wondering, would shimp be compatible with a female A.Borellii, I know that they most definitley are not safe around the male, but is there a chance with the female.