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Apistogramma Bitaeniata Rio Nanay - pH and diet for long term

Ghostuga

New Member
Messages
3
Hi there, recently I purchased a young male wild caught Apistogramma Bitaeniata Rio Nanay. My pH are between 7-7.2 pH, temp 26.5c, KH 3. I inject 1 bps for CO2. 20 gallon tank with a lot of plants.
This pH is good for long term or should I inject more CO2 ? The little guy is doing well (2 weeks), a little aggressive in the first week with the Ramirezi, but since last week they are doing fine, unless the feeding time (in the territorial zone for the Apistogramma) a little push up. The Bitaeniata is eating Sera Discus Granulat daily and 2 days frozen brine shrimp or baby brine shrimp and 2 days Grindal worms (splited). This diet is good enough for long term?

Some pics attached, hope you like it








 

dw1305

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
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2,791
Location
Wiltshire UK
Hi all,
Welcome to Apistogramma forums
This pH is good for long term or should I inject more CO2 ?
The pH changes due to CO2 injection aren't the same as those in naturally acidic water, so I don't think more CO2 will help, (but it does make asphyxiating your fish more likely).
The Bitaeniata is eating Sera Discus Granulat daily and 2 days frozen brine shrimp or baby brine shrimp and 2 days Grindal worms (splited). This diet is good enough for long term?
That sounds fine.
Some pics attached, hope you like it
The tank looks good. The substrate is a bit coarse, but you could add some structural leaf litter.
a little aggressive in the first week with the Ramirezi, but since last week they are doing fine, unless the feeding time (in the territorial zone for the Apistogramma) a little push up.
They probably aren't compatible in the long term, but see how they get on.

cheers Darrel
 

MacZ

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,198
Location
Germany
Can't see any pistures. o_O

But I agree, never use CO2 to dial in pH. Bears so many risks, it's not worth it. If you're CO2-tank runs empty at the wrong moment (usually when you're not at home or when no store is open to resupply), it tends to end in a disaster. pH is also not as important as conductivity. If you want to make the water fit, RO plus humic substances (rather from botanicals than peat) and you're good to go. No remineralizing or CO2.
 

Ghostuga

New Member
Messages
3
Hi all,
Welcome to Apistogramma forums

The pH changes due to CO2 injection aren't the same as those in naturally acidic water, so I don't think more CO2 will help, (but it does make asphyxiating your fish more likely).

That sounds fine.

The tank looks good. The substrate is a bit coarse, but you could add some structural leaf litter.

They probably aren't compatible in the long term, but see how they get on.

cheers Darrel
Ok I will not change the co2 injection. At the moment is only 1 bps to the plants thrive and the co2 is scheduled with a proper regulator (co2 art pro).

At the left you don't see very much is the Apistogramma area with a lot of roots, some alder cones and catappa leafs decomposing. I will add more for sure.

About the Apistogramma and Ramirezi before the Bitaeniata I had a cacatuoides with the Ramirezi 2 years together and they were doing just fine. We will see (fingers crossed).

Tks for the tips
 

Ghostuga

New Member
Messages
3
Can't see any pistures. o_O

But I agree, never use CO2 to dial in pH. Bears so many risks, it's not worth it. If you're CO2-tank runs empty at the wrong moment (usually when you're not at home or when no store is open to resupply), it tends to end in a disaster. pH is also not as important as conductivity. If you want to make the water fit, RO plus humic substances (rather from botanicals than peat) and you're good to go. No remineralizing or CO2.
Tks for the this!

Alternative pic gallery:



 
Last edited:

MacZ

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,198
Location
Germany
The substrate is a bit coarse, but you could add some structural leaf litter.
I agree now, but there's the option of building "sandboxes" or "beaches" for the dwarf cichlids to have sand to chew. I'd probably do that.

And if you have access to RO, just do some extra waterchanges to get KH down to 1.5° and GH to under 5°. The fish will thank you if you then add more humic substances.

Btw, you can make extract from alder cones and dry them afterwards, to reuse them for that purpose. Better than putting more surplus nutrients in the tank by way of rotting seeds in the cones.
 

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