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Acclimatization

Wazaaaa

Active Member
Messages
106
Location
France
Hello, I have a problem with a purchase from a couple of A.Mendezi, the person in question sold all the males, I had set my water equivalent to his 50us, so I'm going to leave on 4 Apistogramma sp Miua WC from Glaser, which have a water to generally are the following: pH 6.5 to 6.8, 300 to 450 conductivity, my question is, an acclimatization to the drip is the best method for how long in your opinion?
 

MacZ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,958
Location
Germany
I would likely do the drip acclimation until the transport water is diluted with 3-4 times the volume of tankwater. Depending on the drip speed and volume of transport water I estimate that to take 2-3 hours.
 

Ben Rhau

Apisto Club
Messages
566
Location
San Francisco
I add sodium thiosulfate (diluted Prime) to the bag water and drip at 2 drops/second until the pH is less than one unit difference and the EC is within two-fold difference (below 100 us if my tank is 50 us). I would guess it would take 3-4 hours.
 

Ben Rhau

Apisto Club
Messages
566
Location
San Francisco
Yes, I use seachem Prime. It’s very concentrated, so I usually dilute 5-10 fold for a small volume like a shipping bag. Just estimate the volume and scale down. There are other water conditioners that are safer to use at high concentration.

Essentially, you want to bind the ammonia in case the pH goes up when you open the bag.
 

MacZ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,958
Location
Germany
It's supposed to prevent an immediate change by keeping a bubble of the gas/air mix in the bag instead of completely opening it. Only makes sense if you use the needle for the drip.
 

Wazaaaa

Active Member
Messages
106
Location
France
To avoid sudden depressurisation of the inflated bags (risk of gas bubbles forming in the blood of the fish following a sudden drop in pressure)

Do you think I can do the acclimatisation without conditioner ?

Sorry I'm using a translator
 

Ben Rhau

Apisto Club
Messages
566
Location
San Francisco
Hm, I've never heard of that. I guess you would need to seal the bag where it has been pierced to avoid further gas exchange. However, if there is a large difference between the bag water and the tank water, it will take a large volume of water to equalize. It may not fit in the bag.
 

Wazaaaa

Active Member
Messages
106
Location
France
Hm, I've never heard of that. I guess you would need to seal the bag where it has been pierced to avoid further gas exchange. However, if there is a large difference between the bag water and the tank water, it will take a large volume of water to equalize. It may not fit in the bag.
I bought a brand new bucket (never used)
ews0.jpg
 

Ben Rhau

Apisto Club
Messages
566
Location
San Francisco
To avoid sudden depressurisation of the inflated bags (risk of gas bubbles forming in the blood of the fish following a sudden drop in pressure)

Do you think I can do the acclimatisation without conditioner ?

Sorry I'm using a translator
I see. This is a different problem. Usually, the bags are not under high pressure.

What I'm saying is that opening the bag will release CO2 that has built up in the bag (from the fish respiring). The CO2 keeps the water acidic, which keeps most of the ammonia in the harmless ammonium form. When the air in the room exchanges with the air in the bag, the pH of the water can rise, so there will be more in the toxic ammonia form.

If you add water conditioner to the bag, it can minimize the stress of the ammonia. Just be careful to dose the appropriate amount.
 

Ben Rhau

Apisto Club
Messages
566
Location
San Francisco
The normal dose is 2 drops Prime in 3.8 liters of water. So you need to calculate the volume of water in the bag (350ml?) and scale it down.

So, 1 drop of a 1:5 dilution probably works.
 

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