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Small live food, such as freshly hatched brine shrimp, microworms, or similar works best. They don't always take dried foods from the start.
I always do regular water changes, with or without fry present. As long as the water is agreed, reasonably temperature matched and you don't turn your tank...
That should work for a few of the apistos - which species are you planning on keeping?
For some of the black water species you may have to have even more distilled water in your mix for breeding success.
That the minerals in tap water are essential for breeding is not entirely correct, it really...
I have had good success with A. macmasteri (sometimes also sold as viejita) and A. baenschi in 2ft tanks. You may get the occasional aggressive individual but generally they seem to be ok. Many people also keep A. cacatuoides successfully in a 2ft tank.
A. borellii is quite peaceful compared to...
The fish don't need much light, they may in fact feel more secure when there is not much light in a tank.
Lighting is usually there for the benefit of the observer. Well, unless it is a planted tank of course, then the light required depends on the type of plant kept
Baby brine shrimp or micro worms are easy to keep live foods that work well for apisto fry. I use a syringe to squirt them right to where the fry are so that they always get a good feed.
After they are 2-3 weeks old I start mixing some powdered flake food together with the live food and feed...
The first few days after hatching they won't really move around and stay in the cave. They 'feed' from the yolk sack that is still attached to them at that point. Only after the mother takes them out of the cave they will need some food. So if you have the BBS ready then that will be good...
Freshly hatched brine shrimp when they are free swimming works fine, the fry are big enough to eat it. I usually use a small pipette or syringe to squirt them right where the fry are for the first few days, but the mother will take them to wherever the food is as well.
The dwarf gourami may pose...
I'd say they are males. Females usually don't show the red rim around the tail fin.
They look a bit pale, maybe not enough cover in the tank and bright lights? If you provide an environment where they feel safer they will show better color
They are indeed a very nice looking apisto. I have kept them a while ago and they have spawned for me at pH about 5.8 and a conductivity of 120 microS
The major problem I had was aggression. I have only 2ft breeding tanks and despite a lot of plants and driftwood and several attempts to...
Yes, that includes breeding. The species I have successfully bred in that water are macmasteri, borellii, baenschi, trifasciata, agassizi and cacatuoides. Maybe not the most demanding species, but still...
I keep most of my apistos at ~220 microS (about 150ppm TDS) and that seems to work fine for the majority of species I have kept so far. Some more sensitive species I keep in tanks at ~120 microS
Hi Les, sorry, I don't ship. Longer distance shipping is just prohibitively expensive and I don't have any oxygen either, which you really need for the larger distances.
Cheers,
Bernd
I see where you are coming from. The best control of course is with a proper co2 setup with a regulator and a ph controller but that is a bit pricey.
The only problem I see with your approach is that you generate a lot of pressure to start with which you then hope to retain and release over...
What's wrong with just using your standard yeast reactor setup? Much easier and you don't need to repeatedly inject stuff. You can limit co2 flow with a valve if you are concerned you will get too much (unlikely, though).
For any pressurised setup, stay away from glass bottles, you don't want...
You can make the direct conversion. The easiest way is to get a calibration solution for a conductivity meter so you know what the conductivity should read, then just figure out the conversion based on the reading on your TDS meter. Write down the reading that you see and for future calibration...