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Well, the next time you do those changes you can measure before and after and let us know if anything changes.
To get as complete a picture as possible, you should test the water in the tank before and after the change as well as the water you are adding. As the drop tests tend to be a little...
It is highly unlikely to get to levels of CO2 dangerous for fish using DIY methods. As long as you don't have the top completely closed off so that there is no air exchange you should be fine.
If you have never measured when doing your changes, how do you know that the HH, KH, or TDS are dropping?
I am not saying your method isn't working, just wondering what makes you thing it has something to do with water values as opposed to e.g. disturbing territories or similar
I am not really a veteran of apisto keeping, but I'll offer an opinion
All the crushed coral and reef rock will create very hard water as traces of it slowly dissolve into the water.
Apistogramma are soft water fish and come from waters with very little dissolved minerals. This means that...
You shouldn't need a second bottle if you don't overfill the reactor bottle (I do about 1/3 full) and keep the bottle above the water level in the tank. Some people prefer to use it but I have never had any issues with bottle.
A diffuser should make the bubbles as small as possible to maximise...
I keep mine between 24C and ~33C. The lower temp is the heater setting and the higher one what the tanks get up to in the middle of summer (no aircon in the garage).
Some tanks don't have heating and drop to about 17-18C over night. I keep borellii and trifasciata in those.
The fry will not take dried foods when they are very young. You will have to get some small live foods such as freshly hatched brine shrimp or microworms for the first couple of weeks.
I usually feed that for two weeks, then add some finely crushed flake and feed that together with the live...
The fry will not take dried foods when they are very young. You will have to get some small live foods such as freshly hatched brine shrimp or microworms for the first couple of weeks.
I usually feed that for two weeks, then add some finely crushed flake and feed that together with the live...
Bleach is a much better way to sterilise the tank. It is impossible to kill everything with hot water, even with boiling water, as the spores of some bacteria and some viruses can still survive - to kill them you need an autoclave which uses steam under pressure at about 120 degrees Celsius...
I feed all my apistos on a staple of flake and micro pellets and supplement with live foods mainly to condition for breeding or when there is fry. It works well for me and I have kept and bred more than 15 apisto species this way.
The GH may come from running down concrete roof tiles or if the rain water is captured/stored in a concrete rain water tank.
The question which peat is best and the difference between peat and sphagnum moss has been discussed here before. I am not that familiar with the trade names in the US...
I'll try to give a simplified explanation. Bear with me if this gets a bit long....
The GH is a value for the concentration of calcium (Ca2+)in the water - there also are some other ions that contribute to GH, mainly magnesium, but for sake of simplicity we'll leave that aside.
All salts are...
Looks like two males.
A. viejita are not really available in the hobby. For more information about the misuse of the name 'veijita' do a search on this forum
400L should be big enough if properly decorated.
You can try to add some floating pipes to provide shelter for the male in the top part of the tank if you still want to give her another try. She seems quite determined, though
No they won't. But if you want to breed your apistos, the rasboras and most tetras will eat apisto fry. Safer options in this regard are hatchet fish or pencil fish. Of the tetras the green neons (not the normal ones) are a safe option, if I remember that correctly. Some killifish are also...
What size tank were they in? If you provide a tank large enough with sufficient cover and structures to break line-of-sight, that should reduce the chances for deaths quite a bit
Rummynose may not be the best choice as target fish, I think, they tend to eat the fry
Better choices are pencil fish where you don't have the problem.
With the rummy nose in there it might be best to remove the fry earlier rather than later to get a larger number
I do the same, siphon them out with a hose. I usually do it after 10-14 days. After that the fry start to scatter more, which makes it more difficult to get them all and leaving it past the 3 week mark usually means they are strong enough to swim away against the current of the siphon unless you...